Where to use this panic exit bar:
• Glass doors with a stile (metal frame) of at least 1 3/4"
• Steel, wood, and composite solid face doors
• Doors with a maximum width of 40"
• Doors with a minimum width of 25"
• Doors with a maximum thickness of 3 3/8"
• Any door usage frequency
• Single doors, dual doors with mullions, Dual doors without mullions when paired with a 500 Series Panic Exit Bar
Where not to use this panic exit bar:
• Not UL certified, don't use if UL certification is needed for inspection. Click here for UL rated bars
• Not fire rated, not to be used on a fire break. Click here for a fire rated bar
•Cannot release a magnetic door lock, if door is held locked by a magnetic lock do not use this panic bar.Click here for a micro switch panic bar
Features and Inclusions:
• Rim type, simple surface mounting
• Includes steel strike for door frame
• Can be used right or left handed
• Trim-able down to 25" wide
Click To Enlarge
Trimming the panic bar to size:
The panic bar beyond the push pad is hollow square tubing. The bar comes from the factory 40" long. To modify this length simply cut the excess tubing off the end of the bar that you do not need. There is an included cap that will go on the end of the panic bar where the end is cut. Cutting can be done with a hack saw and can reduce the length of the bar to 25".
Right or left hand mounting:
To switch mount remove the head cover from the bar by removing the four screws. Unscrew the flathead screw that is below the spring to disengage the top piece from the panic bar. Loosen the screw the spring is attached to and remove the spring. Engage the spring to the opposite screw, tighten and attach to the opposite hole. Screw the flathead screw on the opposite side to reengage the top piece to the panic bar.
Latching and mounting:
This panic bar is surface mount so the panic bar is placed on the rear face of the door. The rods lead to latches at the top and bottom of the door. On the top will be a surface strike, and on the bottom of the door a floor keeper that will allow a drop pin to go into the floor through a hole in the center of the floor keeper. The strike goes on the door frame behind the door, not on the inside of the frame where you may have previously had a handle. On the door if you previously had a handle that will need to be removed. Caps are available for the hole left behind after the handle is removed. Door jamb brackets are also available to cover where the old handle latched to the frame. Mounting bolts are provided however depending on the material the door is made of you may switch to the same diameter in wood screws, self tapping metal screws, or for added strength - sex bolts (sex bolts have a female side on the outside of the door and a male side on the inside of the door and then they join in the middle of the door, Because both faces of the door are used for securing the bar it makes for a very strong hold.)
Optional products associated with this bar (purchased separately):
Door Closer. There are a couple of variations of door closers with a few different features however the main purpose is the same; to make sure the door stays closed. Because this door will always latch to the strike this is a popular addition to ensure the door stays closed and locked.
500 Series Panic Bar
The 520 series panic bar can be used in unison with the 500 series panic bar in dual doors. The 520 series top and bottom latch will lock one of the doors to the frame and the 500 series bar would lock the second door to the first door. This is preferable when dual doors overlap. If your dual doors overlap, using a 500 Series Panic Exit Bar will allow you to open both doors when pressing the 520 series push bar.