Frequently Asked Questions
What is a panic bar?
A panic bar is a horizontal bar or push-pad installed on the interior side of an outward-swinging door. When someone pushes on it, the latch is released so the door opens quickly, facilitating safe egress in emergencies.
When is panic hardware required by code?
In many jurisdictions, panic hardware is required on doors in certain occupancy types (assembly, educational, high-hazard) when the number of people in a room or building reaches a certain limit (often 50+ people per the International Building Code (IBC), or 100+ per NFPA 101 Life Safety Code).
Also, specific doors accessing rooms with large electrical equipment may also require panic hardware.
Even if it’s not strictly required, many facilities install panic hardware for safety and convenience.
Also, specific doors accessing rooms with large electrical equipment may also require panic hardware.
Even if it’s not strictly required, many facilities install panic hardware for safety and convenience.
Can panic bars be installed on fire-rated doors?
Yes, but only if the hardware is specifically listed for fire-exit use (fire-rated panic hardware). Simply using a standard panic bar on a fire-rated door may not meet code requirements.
When they are installed on fire-doors, the door must have the proper labeling (Fire Door Equipped with Fire Exit Hardware) and the installation must meet the manufacturer’s fire-rating instructions.
When they are installed on fire-doors, the door must have the proper labeling (Fire Door Equipped with Fire Exit Hardware) and the installation must meet the manufacturer’s fire-rating instructions.
What installation and maintenance practices should I follow?
Ensure the door and frame are compatible with the selected device (clearance, swing direction, handedness).
Align the strike and latch so the device operates smoothly and reliably.
Regular maintenance: monthly check of operation (bar pushes, latch releases, door closes), measure push-force.
Annual or more frequent maintenance in high-use or corrosive environments (near swimming pools, coastal areas).
Never add another lock (padlock, hasp, chain) to a door equipped with panic hardware if that would prevent free egress.
Align the strike and latch so the device operates smoothly and reliably.
Regular maintenance: monthly check of operation (bar pushes, latch releases, door closes), measure push-force.
Annual or more frequent maintenance in high-use or corrosive environments (near swimming pools, coastal areas).
Never add another lock (padlock, hasp, chain) to a door equipped with panic hardware if that would prevent free egress.
If my building doesn’t legally require panic hardware, should I still use it?
Yes, many recommend using panic hardware even when not strictly mandated, because it enhances occupant safety, allows faster egress, and may reduce liability.
The decision should consider occupant load, door traffic, risk factors (high traffic, emergency exit paths), and budget.
The decision should consider occupant load, door traffic, risk factors (high traffic, emergency exit paths), and budget.
What are some common problems or hazards to avoid?
Installing on a door that swings inward when the device is designed for outward swing.
Mounting too high or mis-aligning the strike so the latch doesn’t engage properly.
Adding locks that inhibit egress (code violation).
Failing to test regularly - the bar won’t release the latch or requires excessive force.
Using non-fire-rated hardware on a fire-door or ignoring the fire-label requirement.
Ignoring maintenance in harsh use environments (which reduces reliability).
Mounting too high or mis-aligning the strike so the latch doesn’t engage properly.
Adding locks that inhibit egress (code violation).
Failing to test regularly - the bar won’t release the latch or requires excessive force.
Using non-fire-rated hardware on a fire-door or ignoring the fire-label requirement.
Ignoring maintenance in harsh use environments (which reduces reliability).
How do I decide what model or configuration to choose for my door?
Consider the following when selecting:
- Door swing direction and handing.
- Single vs. double door (and whether inactive leaf needs optional device).
- Whether a fire-rated door is involved (then select listed fire hardware).
- Traffic volume and usage (heavy use may call for more robust devices).
- Additional features: dogging (holding bar open), delayed/controlled egress, alarms, electrified integration.
- Compatibility with your door and frame (material, thickness, clearances).
- Compliance with relevant codes (IBC, NFPA, local jurisdiction) and accessibility.
Can panic bars be used on glass doors or aluminum storefront doors?
Yes, many panic bars are designed for glass or aluminum doors, but they must be paired with compatible mounting hardware and door profiles. Always verify that the device is rated for the specific door type.
Can I install a panic bar myself, or should a professional do it?
While some surface-mounted rim devices are straightforward to install, professional installation is recommended to ensure code compliance, proper alignment, and smooth operation.
Do panic bars come with outside access options?
Yes. You can add an exterior trim (lever, knob, or keyed cylinder) that allows entry from the outside while keeping the inside push-to-exit function.
Can a panic bar be connected to an alarm or access control system?
Many models can integrate with alarms, delayed egress systems, or electrified strikes to monitor or control door use.
How long do panic bars typically last?
With regular maintenance and proper installation, quality panic bars can last 10 - 20 years or more, even in high-traffic areas.
